Vibrant wine-centric gastrobar Fiasco by Juice brings a beautiful, welcome mess to the charming serenity of Singapore’s serene Tiong Bahru estate.
I have a confession to make. I wanted to hate Fiasco by Juice. I find Tiong Bahru already far too gentrified for my plebian roots, and the idea of having yet another hifalutin F&B concept pimp up one of Singapore’s beloved old-school neighbourhoods makes me cringe.
Opened by Petites Ventures – the same folks behind mezcal-centric cocktail bar Foxtail, noodle gastrobar Nou Noodle Bar, and of course, wine bar Juice – Fiasco by Juice on Yong Siak Street (right next to The Butcher’s Wife) is essentially a day-to-night destination that starts as a coffee and sandwich joint during the day and transitions into a wine-forward gastrobar.
When you hear of longstanding heritage businesses and well-loved local coffee shops in the area chased out by high rents and replaced by exactly these kind of concepts, it sets people like me off.
Especially when you look at the food menu.
Steak frites? Vegan-pandering roasted cauliflower done not just one, but two ways? Preposterous.
Until I set fork to dish.
The Charred Cabbage and Chili Labneh sounded airlifted from some fancy Michelin-approved menu. I let out an involuntary snort at first glance, but the napa cabbage was smoky, crunchy yet juicy, and the Middle Easter-inspired yogurt-based sauce creamy and savoury. It’s faultless execution, and a riot of flavour that was frankly deliciously jaw-dropping.
The Dry Aged Duck, Beetroot Bearnaise, Jus too was scrumptious, the duck perfectly seared on the outside, while remaining moist and tender on the inside. I may have licked the plate clean too.
Indeed the saucing here is classic French technique, as also evidenced by the beurre blanc that comes with the Dry Aged Japanese Snapper. Spiked with Japanese kosho for some heat and citrus tanginess that helped lift the palate, this is another winning dish.
The Thai Green Curry, Mussel Flatbread I liked less, but only because it comes a little dry. But that flatbread was very useful for mopping up the aforementioned sauces.
Then wine selection at Fiasco by Juice is as progressive as the cuisine. Options like an organic Etna Bianco from Sicily instead of your usual New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, or a Lebanese Cinsault rather than a boring Australian Shiraz, shows its edgier intent.
I later find out that the kitchen at Fiasco by Juice is headed by Chef Haran Kumar, who previously served stints at Michelin-starred Nouri in Singapore and World’s 50 Best Restaurant Ikoyi in London. The young Singaporean chef has chosen, of all places, to put on his apron and showcase his culinary chops in the randomness of Tiong Bahru.
It’s a fully packed venue on Friday evening, a boisterous young crowd perched on mismatched furniture with happy faces beaming from truly good food and quite a bit of wine.
Perhaps there is something good that can be said of gentrification after all. My own neighbourhood may not be quite as upscale as Tiong Bahru, but I guess I wouldn’t quite mind a Fiasco by Juice round the corner.
Fiasco by Juice
Address 21 Yong Siak St, Singapore 168651 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 9am to 12am Wednesdays to Sundays; closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
Tel (65) 8950 1695
Web juiceco.sg
Instagram @fiasco.byjuice
Reservations book here
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