Sushi Kenshin at Clarke Quay Central makes a convincing case for the enduring appeal of technically sound Edomae sushi delivered with warmth and at pricing grounded in reality.
Singapore’s fine dining scene may be encountering challenging headwinds right now, but that’s not stopping some from opening restaurants even in the brutal Japanese omakase category.
Among the latest spate of openings? Sushi Kenshin, headed by veteran sushi master Kevin Ho at Clarke Quay Central.
A protege of the late Chef Yoshio Nogawa who founded the famous Nogawa Japanese Restaurant at Concorde Hotel – widely regarded as Singapore’s first authentic omakase restaurant, Chef Kevin has over three decades of experience under his tasuki, centred particularly around traditional Edomae-style sushi.
Anime fans would be disappointed to learn that Sushi Kenshin isn’t named for the popular series featuring a wandering ronin; in this case Kenshin (献身) means devotion or dedication, a term that sums up Chef Kevin Hoo’s culinary journey to become a master sushi chef.
At Sushi Kenshin you’ll find floor-to-ceiling windows offering a scenic view overlooking the Singapore River, while the interior sets the scene for its cuisine — minimalist, refined, and considerate. There is little performative austerity here. Instead, the space prioritises comfort, including ergonomic seating and even accessibility considerations for wheelchair users.
We visited during lunch for its omakase sets, which are priced approachably so diners can experience the same culinary expertise and premium ingredients without breaking the bank. The ‘SHIN Omakase’, for example, is a lunch-exclusive set that comprises three appetisers, chawanmushi, a house-made seasonal kuzu tofu, five pieces of nigiri sushi, a handroll, a choice of mini signature wagyu bowl or chirashi bowl, soup, as well as dessert.
The highlight of the omakase is of course, the nigiri sushi. Sushi Kenshin uses Miyagi Sasanishiki, a premium rice from Miyagi prefecture prized for its low stickiness and subtle taste, which makes it perfect for sushi as it maintains individual grains and the light flavour doesn’t detract from the fish. Seasoned with a house-made blend of red and white vinegar for just the right amount of acidity in the rice, each piece of nigiri sushi is shaped by expert hands.
The fish is treated according to how Chef Kevin thinks will bring out the best of it. For example, otoro (fatty tuna belly) is lightly blow-torched to add some char to the melting buttery fat for additional flavour, while hotate (scallop) is enhanced with a squeeze of sudachi to complement the sweetness of the shellfish.
While Sushi Kenshin leans towards a more traditional treatment for nigiri sushi, it exhibits a touch of experimentation in other courses, such as a flourish of tartar sauce on your daikon radish appetiser, or truffle in your chawanmushi.
Then there’s the open-faced “handroll” with negitoro (minced fatty tuna) mixed with citrusy shiso leaves on top of a piece of tempura nori. “You will not see this type of handroll in Japan, but locals like the ‘crunchy, crunchy’ texture,” Chef Kevin explained.
Throughout the meal, Chef Kevin makes an effort to engage with each and every diner, whether it’s to explain his intentions behind the dish, or to exchange light-hearted banter with his regulars, which is a welcome change from the usual formality of omakase restaurants.
Sushi Kenshin does not attempt to reinvent omakase dining, nor does it chase the kind of maximalist flourish that has come to define many of Singapore’s newer Japanese counters. It’s far more pragmatic. The food itself is sufficient reason to return, but we reckon it’s really the welcoming and personal experience exemplified by Chef Kevin — as well as pricing that’s more grounded considering the current market — that will attract repeat visits.
Sushi Kenshin
Address 6 Eu Tong Sen St, Clarke Quay Central, #03-96 Blue Zone, Singapore 059817 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 12-2.30pm and 6-10pm Monday to Saturday; closed on Sundays
Tel (65) 8501 2838
Web https://www.sushikenshin.sg
Facebook Sushi-Kenshin-SG
Instagram sushi.kenshin
Reservations book here
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