Singapore’s first craft makgeolli gastrobar and restaurant, Odem offers a chic yet casual dining experience that celebrates the Korean rice-based brew.
There’s no lack of compelling culinary concepts in New Bahru. From contemporary Sri Lankan eats of Kotuwa to French wine-centric brasserie Le Clos, the trendy River Valley lifestyle enclave have been drawing the curious and hungry alike to explore its eclectic dining offerings.
Another one that’s worthy of note? Odem, whose playful contemporary take on Korean cuisine and extensive selection of artisanal makgeolli sets it apart from its contemporaries.
Indeed Odem has proclaimed itself as Singapore’s first craft makgeolli bar and restaurant, but we figure that’s really only because no one else has gone out to claim that mantle even though they may already serve makgeolli.
But champion makgeolli, it does.
For those not familiar with the cloudy traditional Korean rice brew, makgeolli is Korea’s oldest – and soulful – alcoholic beverage. Typically lightly-sparkling, slightly sweet, tangy and low in alcohol, it has been a staple in Korean culture since ancient times. Inspired by his travels to Korea, Odem founder Dominic Tan has made it his mission to introduce Singaporeans to the wonderfully milky world of makgeolli. The restaurant recently even held a one-day food festival to celebrate makgeolli, unveiling rare examples for festival goers to sample.
Then there’s its food. Odem’s kitchen is helmed by the incredibly young and talented Chef Yumi Bae; she takes her homeland’s flavours and gives them fun and creative spins that you don’t often see often with Korean food.
Take the starter that is the Savoury Donut, for example. Stuffed with shio kelp, salmon roe, creme fraiche, and corn puree, the puff is adorned with a sprinkle of smoked gochugaru a tasty combination of flavours and textures. Once you get past its slightly awkward size, that is; not small enough to eat in one bite, but also not large enough that you think it should be cut into pieces.
Mains include a doenjang-marinated Iberico Secreto, Chef Bae’s take on maekjeok, or grilled pork, served with a variety of grilled vegetables like padron peppers, tomatoes and baby corn. As expected of iberico pork, especially the secreto cut which is known for its generous intramuscular fat, the meat is lusciously juicy and fatty with crisp edges, but otherwise isn’t particularly outstanding.
Odem’s Abalone Boribap, on the other hand, is a culinary masterpiece. An elevated version of the famous Jeju abalone porridge, this is given the premium treatment with makgeolli and abalone jus, pearl barley, gamtae butter, zucchini, gosari (fernbrake), and abalone liver sauce. For those unfamiliar with gamtae, it’s a type of seaweed that has become the darling of fine dining restaurants around the world in recent years, appreciated for its savoury oceanic notes as much as the fact that its laborious production is almost 100% manual.
This is elevated comfort food at its best.
Makgeolli is also incorporated here into desserts. Like the refreshing Hwachae, which showcases small batch makgeolli producer Mars Brewery by making its Mars Rosé – a makgeolli made with locally grown Campbell grapes – into a granita, and pairing it with currants, jujube-marinated blackberries, compressed watermelon, watermelon jelly, and rose tea.
As you look around Odem’s beautifully-appointed interiors combining contemporary flourishes and traditional Korean elements – such as charred timber panels – you’ll quickly observe that almost every table will order the Quintet. This is a curated flight of five brews, designed to give diners an experience of the gamut of the craftsmanship of the rice wines – from fruity, floral, to earthy, and malty – sourced primarily from independent breweries.
Who knows? You may just start your love affair with makgeolli right here.
[Photo credits: Odem]
Odem
Address 46 Kim Yan Rd., #01-17 New Bahru, Singapore 239351
Opening Hours 11.30am to 2pm and 5pm to 12am Tuesday to Sunday; closed on Mondays
Web www.odem.sg
Instagram @odem.sg
Reservations book here
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