Japanese yakitori, but make it even more fiery. Firebird by Suetomi dials up the drama — and flavour — with its unorthodox, woodfire-forward take on Japanese grilling.
In a city already brimming with pretty much the entire spectrum of Japanese cuisine — from fine-dining omakase to ramen of every noodle stripe — the recent introduction of Firebird by Suetomi to Singapore’s burgeoning dining scene may seem unremarkable. But Firebird, for those who may not have heard, is the first international offshoot of famous Tokyo yakitori restaurant Makitori Shinkobe opened by acclaimed Chef Makoto Suetomi. That restaurant currently commands a waiting list that runs more than a year since opening back in 2021.
With such stellar credentials, the expectations for our visit to Firebird by Suetomi were exceeding high.
And we’re not disappointed.
You’re greeted by an impressive 12-seater counter bar when you first enter the restaurant, built around the heart of all the action the grill — the restaurant’s raison d’etre — looking entirely resplendent with logs of firewood stacked up to the ceiling right next to it, even as it burns and spits out vibrant orange fiery flames.
It’s altogether entrancing.
But it’s really the innocuous firewood, more than the grill, that sets Firebird by Suetomi apart from its peers. Firebird by Suetomi torches tradition by ditching binchotan — Japanese charcoal revered for its clean, high-heat neutrality — in favour of open wood-fire grilling using a unorthodox mix of cedar, American and Polish oak, and cherry wood instead, all of which impart stronger, smokier flavours to the food.
For diners who prefer to stay away from the fiery action — or save themselves from smoke-infused clothing — a hidden private dining room that seats eight is also available.
The indecisive among us will be glad to know there is only one option on the menu – the 13-course omakase. There is an ala carte menu, but those items are only available as add-ons.
There’s Momo Ichimai Yaki with Shironegi Mustard Sauce, grilled as a whole chicken thigh to retain the juiciness of the meat while getting that crispy skin typical of yakitori, and paired with a piquant soy and Dijon mustard sauce. Chicken skin lovers will also enjoy Chicken Wing with Spicy Miso from Niigata prefecture, where the fat has been rendered out to leave just a perfect thin layer of “crackling”.
There’s a kaiseki sensibility here, along with omotenashi intentionality. Dishes oscillate between skewers and composed plates. Chicken courses are interspersed with non-meat ones to provide balance and avoid tiring the palate.
You find, for example, the Shiitake Mushroom Beurre Blanc, which adopts a more European treatment of the mushroom sourced from Iwate prefecture. Or Shin Tamanegi, an onion that has been simmered for two hours at a low temperature and served with chicken stock, soy and yuzu zest. It’s one of the more unusual dishes too.
Some are European classics given Japanese twists. Like Toast with Rillette, but with the addition of umeboshi pickled plum. Conversely, Chicken Breast with Harissa leans into the North African chile paste alongside yuzu kosho.
The star of the omakase is undoubtedly Soboro Claypot Rice, its minced chicken is sautéed in a basket directly over wood fire, giving it an intense smokiness that is further enhanced by the incorporation of a log of charred oakwood in the donabe used to cook the Akitakomachi rice.
The result is served in three ways — first in its unadulterated state, followed with a dollop of ginger and spring onion paste that pays tribute to Hainanese chicken rice. The third and final evolution sees it topped with with a soy-marinated egg yolk and crunchy agedama.
It’s playful, yet reverential.
If we have only one criticism, it’s that the 13-course omakase doesn’t include offal; there was just one offal option on the ala carte menu during our visit. While it caters to the majority who may not appreciate such gnarly offcuts, yakitori fans — we count ourselves among them — revere them. Perhaps Firebird by Suetomi could offer a second omakase selection that’s more offal-forward?
That aside, Firebird by Suetomi lands in Singapore’s crowded dining scene like a well-aimed firebrand: it’s bold, elemental, and yet quietly respectful of Japanese tradition. And in a city hungry for fresh takes on familiar formats, it just might be the spark Singapore’s omakase scene needs.
[Image credits: Firebird by Suetomi]
Firebird by Suetomi
Address 83 Neil Rd, Duxton Hill #01-05 Mondrian Singapore, Singapore 089813
Opening Hours 6pm to 10.30pm Tuesday to Sunday
Facebook firebird.sg
Instagram @firebird.sg
Reservations +65 9776 2476 or book here
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